Ode to Bob

I learned this week with great sadness that my friend Bob Wham died shortly before the new year. I also feel very blessed to be able to call him a good friend, as I think he was one of the very special people in my life.

I first met Bob when I was newly in the Capitol. An issue arose about which I felt very strongly, and I went to talk with my Senator as an individual, not a lobbyist. There I was, quivering with earnestness, making my passionate pitch. Bob listened very intently, let me finish, and then offered, in the mildest of tones, his reasons for viewing things a little differently. At the end of the conversation, I left knowing I had not convinced him, but that I had had an intelligent conversation, and I had some additional things to think about.

When his wife Dottie was elected to the House I was privileged to work with her on several very meaty issues. Through the years, I felt adopted into the Wham family.

Just before going to graduate school, I took a week long sailing course. When I came back, I stopped in Frisco to check in, and there began another aspect of our friendship. Bob was a sailor. A very very good sailor. He and I sailed the Dillon Reservoir for several years. I bought a share of his boat, and some of my very fondest memories of him were those adventures on a cold mountain reservoir. He wore a misshapen sailors cap, and we took water to drink in an old thermos water jug that had been christened the “WHAM BOMB” as in former years I gather that it had contained liquid refreshment that was, well, not water. We talked of all manner of things during those sails. Family, great stories of early Wham years, current political issues (we still did not agree on some of them), and the wonder that is the mountains of Colorado.

My brother, who is a physics graduate, tells me that scientists have found that the universe is not, in fact a great vacuum. It is filled with energy. However one thinks of the afterlife, calling it heaven or whatever, I am certain that the sweet energy that was Bob Wham has found a very good place to be. The justice of the universe would have it no other way.

On a related note, please do not be afraid to send Peace Corps Volunteers news of home - whether good or bad. It makes us feel more connected to friends, family and community. Those connections are what make this service a privilege, rather than a burden.

New Year's in Cape Town

Cape Town does not feel like Africa - it feels like a blend of San Francisco, New Orleans (in terms of architecture), and Boston - because here is the ocean.  Very cosmopolitan, real traffic jams (no wonder - everyone drives on the wrong side of the road!) and quite wild on New Year's Eve.  We went down the coast for New Year's Eve day - to the farthest possible tip of the continent where two oceans come together, and saw a penguin colony on the way home.  Great Day.

Spent the next day in the wine country - a lot like Napa - very pretty, green, with real mountains in the background.  Definitely doesn't feel like the Africa I know.

Next to Robben Island - where Mandela spent so many years.  Probably won't be pretty there - but necessary to see.

Then out of here on the train and see the rest of South Africa out the window. It's been a great vacation, and I feel refreshed to go back to Mabs.

Happy New Year!

World AIDS Day in Tsonyane

December is the month of World AIDS Day – all over the country, and the world, there are events to recognize those who have died of this disease, and to rededicate those who remain that there is still much work to be done.

Tsonyane is a village of roughly 700 people located on the eastern edge of the Mabutsane sub-district. Travel there from Mabutsane takes about two hours, not counting the obligatory stop in Jwaneng for fuel and usually food. This village was selected by the Mabutsane District AIDS Coordinator and the place for the first, and largest, event for World AIDS Day. As with all official travel, we would go together in a government vehicle, and this one was packed with supplies for the event as well as all of our suitcases and sleeping gear.

We were slated to begin the trip at 2pm – and finally got underway at 3:30 – not too bad by African standards. Of course we had to stop in Jwaneng to buy ourselves dinner, and my companions bought raw meat and mealie meal to be cooked later. We arrived about 5:30 to 6pm, and a group of men were setting up a large tent to be used by for public education. There was a table for condom distribution, complete with anatomically correct models, in both black and white, for demonstration of the correct application. There were also people there who do house to house canvassing to do AIDS education. They also go into bars and other settings where men congregate to make their pitch.

It was a typical male activity (putting up the tent) and with about 8-10 guys working, the tent was up in about 20-25 minutes. Because the land is sandy here, the stakes are curved metal rods that are pounded deeply into the sand.  After we schmoozed for a while, we went to inspect our sleeping quarters – a room in the school building. Others were smart and brought inflatable mattresses or other padding, while I thought I could tough it out with just a sleeping bag folded double under me. A mistaken assumption, that was. I am way too old to sleep on a cement floor. Lesson learned.

By this time it was dark. The electricity in the village was out, except for the nurse’s house, which has a solar panel on it. She had the only lights visible, except for candles. I do hope there is greater acceptance of solar power here soon, as Lord knows there is plenty of sunshine, and the electrical system is not close to 100% reliable. So a group of about 5-6 of us knocked on the nurse’s door, introduced ourselves, and asked if we could use her kitchen to cook.  She had never met any of us, I think, but sure, come on in and so we did and made a mess in her kitchen. I had bought already prepared food for my dinner, so I was already fed. Everyone else waited until 10pm to eat.

The nurse is a lovely young woman (she told me she is about to turn 30 this month) who is the sole health provider in the village. She has at her disposal an ambulance to taken seriously sick patients to a bigger clinic or hospital.

In the morning, after an uncomfortable night, complete with hard floor, a door that was very noisy opening and closing, the late to bed people coming through that door around midnight or so, and the early to bed people rising very early, I went back to the nurse’s house for a bath. At roughly 5 am, she sweetly greeted me, cleaned out her bathtub, and heated water over an outdoor fire. By 6:30 I was bathed and dressed. One other of our group also availed herself of the bathtub.

The event was like a combination of a company picnic, a religious revival, and a trade show. There were greetings, long prayers, motivational speeches, children running about with treats in their mouths, mothers nursing babies, and entertainment by local people.

In addition to singing groups, there was a gentleman playing a home-made ‘guitar.’ This instrument consisted of a rusty can (large paint can size) into which a large wooden branch had been placed and then the can squashed around it. Through the branch a hole had been drilled for a peg . At the end of the peg was a wire string that also ended in the can. This single string was played with a bow consisting of a curved small branch, maybe 10 inches in length, also strung with a wire. Rubbing the two wires together and using his finger on the larger wire to regulate pitch, he made music and sang. Complete with misshapen hat, baggy trousers and a suit coat of indeterminate age, he made quite a picture. And, because I was a part of the official visiting party, I had no camera with me.  Later, he wandered the ground and seeing me, began to sing about ‘lekgoa’ – the Setswana word for white person. I don’t know what he said about me!

It was quite an event.

Making a difference

As to whether or not I am making a difference, I think the honest answer is "I think so, at least on some days." I was working with a bright young man today editing a document, and showing him how to do some things in Word and Excel.  After I showed him, he did it himself and teased me saying "Look! A transfer of skills!" Those are Peace Corps buzz words, but it was in fact true.

The closest example of where I work is Denver Health.  My office is the administrative head for 4 health clinics and 5 health posts.  Those clinics and health posts provide direct care to people here, and they are the only health resource available.  So while I don't work with patients directly, I help the people who make sure there is staff and supplies, to provide the care. 

I am taking a lot of responsibility for the data collection and analysis for our system.  Those data we not only send to national in Gabs, but review to see if we need to add or subtract services to meet the health care needs of our people.  Lots of sexually transmitted diseases?  Let's plan some talks with local leaders and public education about it.  A sudden rush of cases of little kids with diarrhea (which can be life threateneing) - let's staff up to provide care and also figure out what bug is going around so we can stop it.  It is just good basic public health - not glamorous, but people can progress when they are sick.  AIDS/HIV is a major part of the mix, but not all of it.  And most days are different from each other, so I just pitch in to help with whatever needs done.

Fuggedabout that nonsense about "not in my job description!"  That is also a model for everyone else.

My little house

I took some pictures of my house in Mabs.  It is a 2-bedroom, 1-bath.  I have electricity and indoor plumbing, as well as a metal roof--all of which translates into pretty swanky digs.  Many have thatched roofs.  Still others have no indoor plumbing (there is a well in the front yard), or electricity, or both. 

Below is 1) looking at my house from the yard, 2) my dining room, 3) my living room, and 4) looking from my house to my street.

My house is very sweet.  See for yourself!

Care Packages--part 2

It is currently the dead of Summer here, so while you may be crouching around the fireplace and putting on your wooly mittens, we are sweating and sweltering here.  Definitely not something I'm used to as the Christmas season approaches.  Yes, Botswana does celebrate Christmas--it is about 70% Christian.

So many of you have sent me lovely little goodie packages from the States, and THANK YOU!  Many others have contacted me or my daughter, wanting to join in.  I am touched by the gestures, so below is an updated list (UPDATES IN CAPS) of needs (some wants) for life in Botswana. 
It is such a treat to get boxes from home. The post office people always want to know what was in them. A man in my office came in the other day and hungrily fingered my Excel book (which I use a LOT), and I told him he could consult it at any time. But he can't have it until I go home!

1.         Paperback books. We in the Peace Corps trade them, reread them, and hug them to our chests. STILL A GOOD IDEA. I READ A LOT HERE, AND HAVING BOOKS I HAVEN'T READ ON THE SHELF IS LIKE HAVING MONEY IN THE BANK.

2.         Puzzles, games, crosswords, logic problems, and the like. No television in Peace Corps digs. YES INDEED, THESE TOO.  I HAVE SOME CROSSWORD BOOKS LEFT TO ME BY A PREVIOUS VOLUNTEER, BUT I AM ALMOST TO THE END OF THEM.

3.         Needlepoint, knitting, or crochet projects. I like crafts.  Knitting needles were a casualty of my weight restrictions in luggage.  MY NEIGHBOR VALERIE SENT ME SOME NEEDLES AND SOME YARN.  BUT I'M HAPPY TO GET MORE!

4.         DVD movies. I do have my laptop, and brought some with me, but they will only repeat so many times.  STILL NEEDED.  I HAVE RECEIVED SOME, BUT ALWAYS ENJOY THEM.  ALSO ENJOY LOOKING AT AMERICAN SCENES, AND KNOWING I WON'T ALWAYS BE LIVING IN BOTS.

5.         Electrical assistance. This country has 240 DC current. My American appliances ask for 110 AC. My single converter (as opposed to an adaptor, which simply makes the plugs fit), is doing very heavy duty.  If it gives up the ghost, I have a problem.  A COMPANY CALLED WALK ABOUT TRAVEL HAS SOME OF THESE ON THE WEB THAT LOOK LIKE THEY WOULD DO THE TRICK. MY CURRENT ADAPTER IS STILL HOLDING OUT, BUT I USE IT EVERY DAY, OFTEN FOR HOURS.  IF THEY OFFER THE SOUTH AFRICAN PLUGS, INCLUDE THEM, PLEASE.

6.         Packets of spices. Mexican, Italian, Greek/Mediterranean, American comfort food helpers. You can go to a store that sells them In bulk and buy a baggieful, or just a small can.  A CAN OF BASIL WOULD BE WONDERFUL.  OTHERWISE I SEEM TO BE FINDING STUFF HERE.  I BROGHT A BUNCH, AND MY COOKING IS GEETING MUCH MORE SIMPLE.

7.         Seasoned rice vinegar. I FOUND SOME HERE, BUT IT IS NOT THE SAME. BUT NOT A VITAL INGREDIENT.

8.         Regular old Folger's coffee - coarse ground if you can find it. I brought a small French press, but have yet to find a Bots coffee I like.  OH, COFFEE.   THE KIDS HERE LIKE TO GET STARBUCKS BUT I STILL LIKE PLAIN FOLGERS.  I AM DRINKING TEA THESE DAYS A LOT.

9.         A non electric knife sharpener.   STILL NEED THIS.

10.       A bag of real black beans. VALERIE JUST SENT ME ONE OF THESE. I CAN'T WAIT TO MAKE SOUP! IT'S A FAIRLY GOOD SIZE BAG, SO SHOULD LAST A GOOD WHILE.

11.      Real molasses.  There is none to be found in Bots. I FOUND SOME OF THIS IN NAMIBIA. IT SHOULD LAST UNTIL I COME HOME.

12.      Jelly/jam, especially raspberry or peach flavor.   MORE, PLEASE!  I'M ON THE LAST JAR THAT KARIN SENT NOW.

13.       Toiletries - for me, the one I don't want to run out of is stuff to make my hair behave. I love the Alterna product called Hemp Styling and Nutritive creme gel.  I also would appreciate really good skin moisturizers  it is incredibly dry here.   ALWAYS GOOD TO HAVE--ESPECIALLY IN THE DRY, HOT SUMMER WEATHER.

14.       A star chart for the southern hemisphere. You would not believe the night sky here.

WOULD STILL LIKE TO HAVE. I RECOGNIZE THE SOUTHERN CROSS, THE BELT OF ORIAN (IN JUNE AND JULY) BUT THE OTHERS ARE ALL STRANGE.

15.       Tools. An adjustable wrench, a small hammer,  a small flashlight with a couple of sets of batteries. I did bring my Leatherman, but it can't do everything. YUP, STILL NEED. I AM GETTING QUITE INVENTIVE, BUT THERE IS NOTHING LIKE A GOOD TOOL.

16.       A Sunday paper. VALERIE SENT ME A FEW SECTIONS OF THE DENVER PAPER. I ALWAYS LIKE TO READ AMERICAN NEWS.

17.       Yoga pants, or anything made out of stretchy jersey for comfy evenings and weekends. MOLLA SENT SOME OF THESE. I THINK I'M OK HERE.

18.       AA and AAA batteries - rechargeable if possible. I have a charger, but they deplete quickly. SPENT 50 PULA ON THE WEEKEND FOR SOME NON-RECHARGEABLE ONES, BECAUSE I USE THEM IN MY FLASHLIGHT, MY TOOTHBRUSH, AND OTHER MISCELLANY.

19.       If you want to get really exotic (and again I repeat no need to feel an obligation), one of those golf umbrellas with flaps that give way in the wind. Umbrellas are the sun shade of choice during hot

weather, and it can also be windy. At times I have felt like Mary poppins, about to fly away clinging to my umbrella. I HAVE AN UMBRELLA HERE, BUT IT STILL TAKES ME AWAY IN THE WIND. BUT THESE ARE PROBABLY EXPENSIVE.

20.       News from home - Political gossip, major happenings, current fads, anything that you think someone would find interesting. ALWAYS GOOD.

Holidays in Bots

It is finally, finally raining here - at least for a little while at a time.  The clouds help to keep it cooler, yay yay.

About 25 of us went to a place called Phikwe last weekend for Thanksgiving.  We were at the house of the main guy for Voice of America here in Bots.  Very swanky - swimming pool, hot showers, a great kitchen complete with dishwasher and washer and dryer.  I made the stuffing and everyone brought favorite Thanksgiving dishes.  There are turkeys here, I found.  We all ate until we could no longer walk, with great memories triggered by food.  We store our taste memories in a different place, I learned.  I also learned that I am glad I am in my village.  It was humid there, and hot.  Not a good combo for me.  Also one of the women had someone pry up her metal roof and then break through her ceiling to steal things.  But I feel very safe in Mabutsane, even if it is puckery dry here!

The people from Bots 9, who are one year ahead of us, tell me that after the first Christmas, things begin to speed up, everyone feels more comfortable, and that the final months go very fast.  They are all talking about end of service and what they will do after they go home.

Things do feel more comfortable here, also because I am making my house more and more 'mine' Pictures of friends and family would help that, for those reading this blog!